Colombo

Colombo's beloved seafront promenade — a long grassy strip along the ocean where the whole city gathers at dusk to fly kites, stroll, court and, above all, eat: a legendary line-up of street-food stalls sells isso wade (prawn fritters), kottu and more against a blazing sunset. Join the crowds, grab a snack, and watch the sun sink into the sea; the quintessential, joyful Colombo evening. Free and unmissable.

Colombo's most important and eclectic Buddhist temple — a fascinating jumble of shrine halls, a museum crammed with donated treasures (from carvings to vintage cars), a library and a sacred bodhi tree, plus the serene Seema Malaka meditation pavilions floating on the nearby Beira Lake. Colourful, atmospheric and endlessly curious; wander the halls, and visit the lakeside pavilions at dusk. A vivid heart of the city's spiritual life.

A gloriously chaotic old bazaar district next to Fort, where a maze of streets each sells its own trade — textiles, electronics, gold, spices, fruit — in a heaving, honking, sensory overload. A thrilling plunge into working Colombo; wander the lanes, haggle, and soak up the noise and colour, with the beautiful red-and-white Jami Ul-Alfar mosque and old colonial churches hidden among the stalls. The vivid, beating heart of the old city.

The historic colonial core, where grand Dutch and British-era buildings — the old Cargills department store, the lighthouse clock tower, the President's House — sit beside the gleaming new Port City development and towers. A fascinating architectural walk through Colombo's layers of history; admire the restored arcades, the Old Dutch Hospital's shops and restaurants, and the seafront. The dignified, evolving heart of the capital.

Sri Lanka's grandest museum, in a beautiful colonial building set in gardens in leafy Cinnamon Gardens — a superb collection tracing the island's history and culture, from ancient royal regalia and the throne of the Kandyan kings to Buddhist sculpture, masks and colonial artefacts. A cool, rewarding couple of hours and an excellent primer on the country's rich heritage; a cultural highlight of the capital. Peaceful and air-conditioned.

Sri Lankan food is a spicy, glorious surprise, and Colombo is the place to dive in — kottu roti (chopped flatbread stir-fried with veg, egg and meat, hammered out to a clattering rhythm), hoppers (bowl-shaped rice pancakes), string hoppers, fiery curries with sambols, and short eats galore. Graze the Galle Face stalls, the local 'hotels' and the food streets; cheap, bold and delicious. Come hungry and adventurous.

A striking and beloved landmark in the heart of Pettah — a candy-striped red-and-white mosque of hypnotic patterns and quirky pomegranate-shaped domes, built in 1909 and unlike anything else in the city. Dazzlingly photogenic amid the market chaos; visitors are usually welcome outside prayer times (dress modestly). A joyful splash of architecture and one of Colombo's most distinctive and cheerful sights.

The city's newest icon — a soaring, lotus-shaped tower (South Asia's tallest self-supported structure) that lights up in colour at night, with an observation deck offering a 360° view over the sprawling city, the harbour and the sea. Go up for the panorama, especially at dusk as the lights of Colombo come on and the tower itself glows; a fun, modern counterpoint to the colonial and temple sights. A striking symbol of the changing capital.

The nearest real beach to the city — a golden strand south of the centre, watched over by the grand old colonial Mount Lavinia Hotel, lined with seafood restaurants and beach bars perfect for a sunset dinner. Not the island's finest beach, but a lovely, easy escape from the city heat; swim, laze on the sand, and feast on fresh crab and prawns as the sun sinks into the sea. A relaxed, breezy afternoon and evening.

Colombo's skyline has soared, and its rooftop bars are the stylish way to enjoy it — cocktails high above the city and the sea, from historic hotel terraces to sleek new sky-lounges, glowing as the sun sets over the ocean. Dress up, ride the lift, and toast the changing capital; the sunset views over the Indian Ocean are the star. A glamorous evening and the fashionable flip side of the street-food scene below.

Colombo's largest and oldest park, a green oasis in leafy Cinnamon Gardens — shady avenues of flowering trees, a golden Buddha statue, lawns and a lake, with the grand colonial Town Hall (the 'white house') presiding over one side. A pleasant, cooling stroll away from the traffic, popular with locals in the early morning and evening; combine it with the national museum nearby. A relaxed, green breather in the heart of the city.

One of the world's great cheap train rides — the coastal line hugs the shore south from Colombo, the track often running right along the beach with the Indian Ocean crashing metres from the open doors. Ride even a short stretch (to Mount Lavinia or beyond) for the breeze, the sea views and the joyous, local experience of a Sri Lankan train; hang out the door (safely) as the palms and waves slide by. Cheap, scenic and unforgettable.

The oldest colonial building in Fort, a beautifully restored 17th-century Dutch hospital that's now the city's most charming dining-and-shopping precinct — cobbled courtyards and colonnaded verandahs full of restaurants, bars, cafés and boutiques. A lovely, atmospheric spot for a meal, a drink or some craft shopping, blending history with a relaxed buzz; a great introduction to Colombo's colonial heritage and its stylish modern side in one place.

Beyond the street food, Colombo's restaurants serve the full glory of Sri Lankan cuisine — the classic rice and curry, a spread of a dozen or more little dishes of vegetables, dhal, sambols, fish or meat curries and papadums around a mound of rice, eaten (best) with the hand. From humble local 'hotels' to smart modern rooms reinventing island flavours, it's a delicious, generous feast; a proper rice and curry is a Sri Lankan rite.

A grand national monument in Cinnamon Gardens — a stately open-sided memorial hall (modelled on the royal audience hall of Kandy) commemorating independence from Britain, set in gardens where locals jog and stroll, with an upscale arcade of shops and cafés alongside. A pleasant, dignified spot for a wander and a coffee, especially in the cool of the morning or evening; a green, elegant corner of the leafy capital.