Busan

Busan's most photogenic sight — a hillside slum transformed into an open-air artwork, its tumbling maze of houses painted in pastel rainbows and dotted with murals, sculptures and quirky cafés, spilling down to the sea. Often called Korea's Santorini or Machu Picchu; wander the winding lanes on a treasure hunt for the art, and soak up the views. Touristy but genuinely delightful, and utterly unique.

A rare and beautiful Buddhist temple built right on the rocks at the edge of the sea, waves crashing below its shrines and pagodas — most Korean temples are in the mountains, making this coastal one special. Spectacular at sunrise and magical in lantern season; walk down through the market and over the stone bridge, and watch the sea spray the golden Buddha. One of Busan's most memorable sights.

Korea's largest seafood market, and the salty soul of Busan — a heaving, dripping hall and quayside where fishmongers (traditionally women, the 'Jagalchi ajumma') sell every creature the sea offers, wriggling in tanks. Pick your fish downstairs and have it prepared as sashimi (hoe) upstairs; the freshest seafood imaginable, and a vivid, only-in-Busan sensory experience. Come hungry and adventurous.

Korea's most famous beach — a wide, golden, 1.5 km sweep of sand backed by a glittering skyline of hotels and towers, packed with parasols in summer and lovely for a stroll year-round. The heart of Busan's seaside life, with an aquarium, markets and a coastal walk to the nearby Dongbaek island; join the crowds for a swim, or watch the fireworks light up the bay on a summer night.

A hipper, more local beach than Haeundae, facing the spectacular Gwangan 'Diamond' Bridge that lights up in a nightly show — a long sandy strand backed by cool cafés, craft breweries and seafood joints. The best spot in the city for an evening: eat, drink and watch the bridge glitter across the water, and time it for a summer fireworks night. Buzzing, scenic and effortlessly cool.

Busan is Korea's seafood capital, and eating here is a highlight — fresh sashimi (hoe), grilled shellfish, spicy seafood stews, and the local specialities of dwaeji gukbap (pork soup) and milmyeon cold noodles. Pick a fish at Jagalchi and eat it minutes later, or graze the beachfront tents and market stalls; the freshest, most generous seafood in the country, and a real taste of the coast.

A dramatic headland park at the southern tip of the city, where forested cliffs plunge to the sea, with lighthouses, viewpoints and a little tourist 'train' to carry you around. Walk or ride to the cliff edge for sweeping ocean views (on a clear day you can see Japan's Tsushima island), and eat grilled seafood at the rocky shore below. A scenic, breezy half-day and one of Busan's finest coastal spots.

One of Korea's great Buddhist temples, set peacefully in the forested slopes of Geumjeongsan mountain above the city — a serene, ancient complex of ornate halls, gates and pagodas, wonderfully atmospheric and a world away from the beaches below. A calm, spiritual escape and a lovely introduction to mountain-temple Korea; combine it with a hike on Geumjeong Fortress, whose walls ring the peak above.

A photogenic cliffside village of white houses perched above the sea on Yeongdo island — narrow lanes, artsy cafés with ocean views, and a seaside walking path beneath the cliffs, often likened to a Korean Santorini. Quieter and more local than Gamcheon; stroll the clifftop alleys, stop for coffee overlooking the water and the passing ships, and enjoy one of the city's loveliest, breeziest corners.

One of Korea's best jjimjilbang (bathhouse-and-sauna complexes), in the giant Shinsegae department store — a huge, luxurious spread of hot and cold pools, themed saunas and lounging halls fed by two kinds of natural hot-spring water. The perfect, restorative Korean ritual after a day on your feet; soak, sweat and relax like a local. A wonderfully odd, only-in-Korea few hours, especially welcome in winter.

The lively square in old Nampo-dong that hosts the film festival, ringed by cinemas and, best of all, a paradise of street-food stalls — try the local ssiat hotteok, a sweet seeded pancake unique to Busan, plus every Korean snack you could want. Buzzing day and night, with handprints of film stars in the pavement; a fun, cheap graze and the beating heart of the old downtown. Come hungry.

A stunning coastal trail along the rugged cliffs and rock formations of the Igidae headland, with boardwalks, a suspension bridge and jaw-dropping views back across the water to the Gwangan Bridge and the Marine City skyline. A gorgeous, invigorating hour or two of walking right in the city, popular with locals; go at golden hour for the best light on the sea and the towers. Busan's nature and cityscape in one.

Korea's oldest public beach has been reborn with a curving cliff-edge skywalk out over the sea and a scenic cable car (some cabins with glass floors) gliding across the bay. Fun, breezy and family-friendly, with lovely coastal views; stroll the skywalk, ride the 'air cruise' over the water, and enjoy the relaxed, less-touristy western beach. A pleasant half-day on the quieter side of the city.

Seomyeon is Busan's downtown nightlife hub — a dense, neon grid of pojangmacha food tents, soju bars, clubs, and the 'Seomyeon 1-beonga' strip heaving with a young crowd. Cheaper and more local than the beach bars, it's where the city really parties; graze the street food, down soju with the locals, and club till late. For a beachside vibe instead, Gwangalli's breweries and bars are the cooler alternative.

A sprawling, historic maze of a market born from the chaos of the Korean War, where you can buy just about anything — clothes, tools, hanbok, souvenirs and, above all, a glorious spread of street food in its packed alleys. Gritty, authentic and a plunge into everyday Busan life; wander the labyrinth, snack your way around, and feel the resilient, salty spirit of the old city. Right by BIFF Square and Jagalchi.