Bucharest

The second-largest administrative building on earth (after the Pentagon) — Ceaușescu's monstrous, megalomaniacal marble palace, built at ruinous cost by demolishing a fifth of the old city. A staggering, chilling monument to communist excess; take a guided tour of its endless, colossal halls of chandeliers and marble (bring ID, book ahead), and grasp the scale of the dictatorship. Bucharest's most extraordinary and sobering sight.

The city's beautifully restored historic core — a compact tangle of cobbled, pedestrian lanes packed with restaurants, bars, cafés, old churches and grand relics like the stunning Carturesti Carusel bookshop and the vaulted Macca-Villacrosse passage. Atmospheric by day, riotous by night; wander the lanes, ducking into churches and courtyards, then settle in for dinner and drinks. The buzzing, characterful heart of Bucharest.

Bucharest's most beautiful building — a gorgeous domed 1888 concert hall, its columned facade and lavish, gilded circular auditorium wrapped in a sweeping fresco of Romanian history, home to the George Enescu Philharmonic. A masterpiece of the belle-époque 'Little Paris' era; admire the exterior on its handsome square, and if you can, catch a concert to see the dazzling interior. The elegant cultural heart of the city.

A tiny, exquisite 18th-century Orthodox church hidden in the old town — a jewel of the Brâncovenesc style, with intricately carved stone, delicate frescoes, and a serene columned courtyard that feels a world away from the bars outside. Free and utterly charming; step in for a moment of calm and beauty, admire the famous choir's home, and marvel at the craftsmanship. One of the loveliest small churches in the country, and a hidden gem.

A wonderful open-air museum on the shore of Herăstrău lake — hundreds of authentic traditional houses, churches, windmills and farmsteads brought from every region of Romania and reassembled among the trees, a whole rural country in miniature. A delightful, peaceful stroll through centuries of folk architecture and village life; one of Europe's best ethnographic museums and a lovely half-day, especially combined with the park around it. Charming and evocative.

Romanian food is hearty, comforting and gloriously cheap — sarmale (stuffed cabbage or vine leaves), mici (grilled minced-meat rolls), rich polenta (mămăligă) with cheese and sour cream, ciorbă sour soups, and papanași fried-dough doughnuts for dessert. Eat at a traditional restaurant like the beautiful Caru' cu Bere, or a local canteen; filling, tasty and a bargain, washed down with țuică plum brandy or good Romanian wine.

The historic square where the 1989 revolution reached its climax — Ceaușescu gave his final, doomed speech from the balcony of the former Central Committee building here before fleeing by helicopter, and days later the dictatorship fell. A poignant, pivotal spot marked by a striking memorial, ringed by the former royal palace (now the art museum), the Athenaeum and grand old buildings. Powerful recent history at the heart of the city.

Bucharest's biggest and most beautiful park — a vast green expanse around a large lake in the leafy north, with shady paths, gardens, boat trips, waterside restaurants and terraces where the city comes to walk, cycle and relax. A gorgeous escape from the urban bustle and a window into local life, especially lovely on a warm evening; hire a pedal boat, stroll the lakeshore, and enjoy the greenest, most relaxed side of the city.

Bucharest has one of the wildest, cheapest nightlife scenes in Europe — the old town heaves with bars, clubs and terraces, from craft-cocktail dens and hidden speakeasies to huge clubs and rooftop lounges, all at a fraction of Western prices. It goes very late and the crowd is up for it; bar-hop Lipscani, find a summer rooftop, or dance till dawn. A big reason the city has become a party destination; great, cheap fun.

Housed in the grand former royal palace on Revolution Square — a superb collection of Romanian art (including the beloved Grigorescu) and a European gallery with El Greco, Rembrandt and more, in the opulent old throne rooms and halls. A rewarding couple of hours and a chance to see inside the royal palace; the Romanian galleries are a lovely introduction to the country's art. A cultural highlight in a beautiful, historic setting.

The oldest and most romantic park in the city, right in the centre — a beautiful 19th-century English-style garden of winding paths, a lake with rowing boats, shady trees, flower beds and old-fashioned charm, where Bucharestians have strolled and courted for generations. A lovely, central green oasis for a relaxed wander, a coffee or a boat ride, especially pretty in autumn; a gentle, romantic breather in the middle of the busy city.

Bucharest's most famous and beautiful beer hall, open since 1899 — a gorgeous neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau interior of soaring stained glass, carved wood, frescoes and murals, serving hearty Romanian classics and its own beer to the sound of occasional folk dancing. Touristy but genuinely stunning and fun; go for the extraordinary setting as much as the food, book ahead, and soak up the belle-époque grandeur. An atmospheric, only-in-Bucharest feast.

Bucharest's own Arc de Triomphe — a grand stone triumphal arch on a leafy northern boulevard, built to celebrate Romania's WWI victory, a proud symbol of the 'Little Paris' era. Climb it on the rare open days for a view down the tree-lined avenue, or simply admire it on the way to Herăstrău park nearby; it neatly captures the city's Francophile 19th-century ambitions. A handsome landmark in the elegant north.

The ruins of the medieval palace of the Wallachian princes — including Vlad the Impaler (the real 'Dracula'), who ruled from here — hidden in the old town, with a bust of Vlad and the city's oldest church beside it. A fascinating, atmospheric fragment of Bucharest's deep, dark history amid the modern bars; small but evocative, it connects the buzzing old town to the legends of medieval Wallachia. A quick, intriguing stop for history and Dracula fans.

Romania is one of Europe's oldest and largest wine producers, and Bucharest's cosy wine bars are the place to discover its excellent, little-known bottles — crisp Fetească Regală whites, robust Fetească Neagră reds and more, at bargain prices. Settle into a wine bar in Cișmigiu or the old town, order a tasting flight, and let the friendly staff guide you through the country's underrated vineyards. A delicious, relaxed evening and a real find.