Lake Como

The 'pearl of the lake' — a cascade of stepped cobbled lanes lined with boutiques and gelaterie, climbing from the ferry piers between the two arms of the lake, with grand villa gardens on either side. Wander the stair-streets, take in the view up both branches, and have an aperitivo on the water; the classic Como picture, busy but beautiful.

The most romantic villa on the lake — an 18th-century retreat on a wooded point near Lenno, its loggia and terraced gardens hanging over the water (you may know it from Star Wars and James Bond). Reach it by boat or a pretty lakeside walk; the gardens and the views back over the lake are extraordinary. Book ahead in season.

Bellagio's quieter, dreamier rival across the water — a tiny fishing village of ochre and pink houses stacked above the lake, linked by a car-free waterside 'Passeggiata degli Innamorati' (the walk of lovers). The most romantic spot on the lake for a slow evening; wander the lanes, walk the lovers' path, and dine at the water's edge.

The lake is made for the boat — elegant ferries and fast hydrofoils crisscross between Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and the villas, and it's by far the best way to see the villas, the villages and the mountains from the water. Buy a central-lake day pass and hop at will, or take a private wooden boat for a golden-hour cruise; a highlight in itself.

A grand lakeside villa at Tremezzo famous for its botanical gardens — terraces of camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons blazing in spring, rare trees, fountains and a museum of neoclassical sculpture inside. One of the great garden villas of the lake, glorious in April–May; combine it with the ferry over from Bellagio.

The city at the lake's foot has a magnificent marble cathedral — Gothic and Renaissance, topped by a great baroque dome — and a compact, walled old centre of piazzas, silk shops and cafés opening onto the lakefront. The liveliest, most workaday corner of the lake and a good-value base; wander the old town and stroll the promenade at dusk.

A century-old funicular climbs from Como up to the hilltop village of Brunate in seven minutes, opening a sweeping panorama over the city, the lake and, on a clear day, the Alps. Ride up for the view, walk to the lighthouse viewpoint, and come down at sunset; the easiest big vista on the lake.

The serene English-style gardens of Villa Melzi run right along the water below Bellagio — lawns and rare trees, a Japanese pond, statues and an orangery, framed by the lake and mountains. A calm, beautiful stroll a few minutes from Bellagio's crowded lanes; lovely in spring when the azaleas flower.

A former monastery turned villa on Varenna's shore, with a long botanical garden stretching nearly two kilometres along the water — citrus terraces, palms, cypresses and statue-lined walks, with the lake shimmering alongside the whole way. A gorgeous, less-crowded garden walk; time it with the lovers' path and a Varenna sunset.

A gentle, well-marked walking path threading the villages of the western shore between Colonno and Griante — through olive groves, old hamlets, villa gates and little coves, with the lake glittering the whole way. Around 10km, mostly flat and easy, and a lovely way to slow down and see the shore on foot; hop a ferry back.

The lake has its own traditional table — risotto with 'pesce persico' (perch fillets), 'lavarello' (whitefish), and the local specialty 'missoltini', sun-dried and salted shad grilled and served with polenta. Eat it at an old trattoria on the water in Varenna or a lakeside village; hearty, distinctive and rooted in the lake itself.

The lake's evening ritual — an Aperol spritz or a glass of Franciacorta on a waterfront terrace as the sun drops behind the mountains and the ferries glide home. Best from Como's lakefront, Bellagio's piers or a Varenna water's-edge table; the moment the day-trippers thin and the lake turns pink and gold.

The lake's only island, off the western shore — a tiny, wooded islet of ancient church ruins and a single famous old restaurant, reached by a short boat from Sala Comacina. A peaceful, history-steeped escape with a lovely view back to the shore, and the setting for the June San Giovanni fireworks; a quiet, offbeat half-day.

A pretty stone village halfway up the eastern shore where a waterfall tumbles through a ravine to the lake beneath an old arched bridge — the 'Orrido di Nesso', a favourite photo stop and a hidden swimming spot. Climb (or drive) down the steep lanes to the little harbour and bridge; a charming, less-touristed corner of the lake.

In summer the lake is warm enough to swim, and paddling it is magical — kayak or SUP along the shore from Varenna or the lidos, slipping past villa gardens and into quiet coves with the mountains all around. Guided dawn paddles are gorgeous; or just take a dip off a village lido on a hot afternoon.

The liveliest town of the western shore — a relaxed, handsome place with a pretty lakefront piazza, a promenade, good restaurants and a more local, everyday feel than glossy Bellagio. A well-connected, better-value base and a nice stroll, with ferries across the lake and buses up towards Switzerland and Lugano.

The lake saves its best for the evening — from Bellagio's point, a western-shore terrace or the deck of the last ferry, the sun slips behind the mountains and turns the water and the villas pink and gold. Find a waterside spot with a drink and watch the light change; the most memorable, and most romantic, thing you'll do here.

The 'point that divides the wind' at Bellagio's tip, where the lake splits into its two arms — a short walk to a little beach with a jaw-dropping view up both branches to the Alps.

A grand neoclassical villa and its lakeside gardens on the edge of Como town — free to wander, with a café and a swimming lido next door. A lovely, easy afternoon.

A sleepy lakeside village with a tiny cable car climbing to the hamlet of Pigra for a bird's-eye view over the whole lake. A quiet, authentic corner away from the villa crowds.