Quito

The most dazzling church in the Americas — a Jesuit baroque masterpiece whose interior is entirely covered in gold leaf, seven tonnes of it, glittering across the walls, altars and soaring ceiling in an overwhelming vision of wealth and faith. Small, jaw-dropping and unforgettable, it's the crown jewel of Quito's astonishing colonial religious art; step inside and simply gaze. The single most spectacular sight in the city, and worth the modest entrance fee alone.

The grand main square of the historic centre — the Plaza de la Independencia, ringed by the presidential palace, the cathedral and the archbishop's palace, and the beating heart of the beautifully preserved old town all around. Simply wandering the UNESCO-listed colonial streets, plazas and church-fronts is the great pleasure of Quito; start here, watch the changing of the guard on Mondays, and lose yourself in the finest colonial centre in South America. Utterly atmospheric.

The little hill rising above the old town, crowned by a giant winged statue of the Virgin of Quito — climb (by taxi, for safety) to her feet for a breathtaking 360° panorama over the whole colonial city spread across the valley, ringed by green Andean peaks and volcanoes. The definitive Quito view and a spectacular way to grasp the city's dramatic mountain setting; go on a clear morning for the volcanoes. Unmissable, and unforgettable at sunset. Take a taxi up.

The largest and oldest colonial complex on the continent — a vast whitewashed monastery and church begun soon after the conquest, fronting a huge cobbled plaza, with a richly decorated interior blending Spanish and indigenous 'Quito School' art. Grand, historic and atmospheric, it's a highlight of the old town; admire the sweeping plaza, step into the church and small museum, and soak up centuries of history. One of the great sights of colonial Quito, and free to enter.

Stand with one foot in each hemisphere at the 'Middle of the World' — the monument marking the equator just north of the city, where you can straddle the line (and, at the nearby Intiñán museum, watch quirky equator experiments like water spinning both ways and balancing an egg on a nail). Touristy but genuinely fun, and a bucket-list photo; combine it with the stunning Pululahua volcanic crater nearby. A novel, only-in-Ecuador half-day out from the city.

One of the highest cable cars in the world climbs the flank of Pichincha volcano to over 4,000 m, with a spectacular ride up and a breathtaking view over the whole vast city in its valley, ringed by snow-capped peaks. From the top you can hike higher up the volcano (take it slow at this altitude). A thrilling, airy perspective on Quito's dramatic setting; go on a clear morning before the clouds build. Wrap up warm — it's cold and thin-aired at the top.

A vast neo-Gothic basilica whose towers you can climb for one of the best (and most thrilling) views in the city — scramble up rickety ladders and walkways high into the spires for a heart-in-mouth panorama over the old town and El Panecillo. Look out too for the quirky gargoyles shaped as Ecuadorian animals (iguanas, tortoises, condors) rather than the usual monsters. An adventurous, unforgettable climb and a highlight of the old town. Not for the faint-hearted.

Ecuadorian food is hearty and distinctive — locro de papa (creamy potato-cheese soup with avocado), ceviche, hornado (roast pork), llapingachos (potato-cheese cakes), corn and plantain everywhere, and, for the brave, cuy (roast guinea pig, an Andean delicacy). Wash it down with fresh tropical juices or a canelazo (hot spiced sugarcane spirit) against the mountain chill. Graze the markets and traditional eateries; tasty, filling and a real taste of the Andes. Delicious and cheap.

A gorgeous, bohemian old neighbourhood tumbling down a steep hillside just below the modern city — cobbled lanes, a beautiful colonial sanctuary church, artists' cafés and bars, and stunning views down the green valley towards the Amazon basin. A romantic, arty escape with a village feel, minutes from the centre; wander the steep streets, admire the church, and enjoy a drink with a view. A charming, off-the-beaten-path corner of Quito beloved by locals.

Quito's hippest neighbourhood — leafy, creative La Floresta, full of street art, indie cafés, craft-beer bars, design shops, the beloved Ocho y Medio art-house cinema and a great weekend food-and-craft scene. A lovely area to café-hop, admire the murals and feel the city's youthful, artistic energy, a world away from the colonial grandeur; the perfect antidote to sightseeing. A relaxed, cool afternoon and evening among Quito's creative set. Increasingly the city's coolest quarter.

Dive into local life at Quito's markets — the Mercado Central near the old town, piled with exotic Andean fruits, hanging meats and cheap, delicious set lunches and fresh juices, plus the famous 'shamans' row' of medicinal herbs. A colourful, sensory plunge into everyday Ecuador and a great place to try local dishes (a bowl of soup, a plate of hornado) among the bustle. Cheap, authentic and full of character; a delicious, eye-opening experience. Come hungry.

The city's big central park — a vast green lung in the modern north, where Quiteños come to jog, cycle, play football, paddle boats and relax at weekends, with a botanical garden and a good natural-history museum inside. A pleasant, local spot to see the city at ease and take a break from sightseeing, especially lively on a sunny Sunday; the botanical garden's orchids and the park's weekend buzz are the highlights. A relaxed slice of everyday Quito life.

Quito's nightlife centres on La Mariscal and Plaza Foch — a lively cluster of bars, salsatecas and clubs where travellers and locals dance to salsa, cumbia and reggaeton and knock back cheap cocktails and canelazos. Fun, buzzing and easy to dive into (take a taxi back and mind your belongings), it's the classic Quito night out; learn some salsa, bar-hop the plaza, and enjoy the party. For a cooler, more local scene, La Floresta's craft-beer bars are a great alternative.

Quito's museums richly repay a visit — the exquisite Casa del Alabado, a beautifully curated pre-Columbian art museum in a colonial house in the old town, and the grand Museo Nacional (of the Casa de la Cultura), with the country's best collection of ancient, colonial and modern Ecuadorian art. A cultured window into the sophisticated cultures that predate the Spanish and the rich 'Quito School' religious art; the Alabado in particular is a gem. A rewarding, illuminating stop.

On weekend evenings the colonial centre comes alive and is beautifully floodlit — join the locals promenading around La Ronda, a restored old cobbled street of colonial houses now full of traditional cafés, artisan workshops, live music and warming canelazos. A magical, atmospheric way to experience the old town after dark (in the safe, lively pockets), full of music and colour; sip a canelazo, listen to the street musicians, and soak up the romance. A lovely, festive Quito evening.